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Archive for the ‘Climbs and Climbers’ Category

Climbs and Climbers to Follow – 7/22/10

Posted on: July 21st, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Climbing Narc Image

The Wednesday roundup of climbing blogs, climbers and expeditions worth your reading time: this week we’ve got an office-staff favorite (thanks Dana!), a blog of one of our partners, and one from two of our hard-pulling members (and we know more of you are out there! Send what you’re doing, … Read more…

Climbs and Climbers to Follow – 7/14/10

Posted on: July 14th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Chicks Climbing Logo

Welcome to this Wednesday’s roundup of blogs and climbing sites we’re digging lately here in the AAC office. As always, let us know what you think in the comments, or point us toward ones deserving of a mention. For now, let’s get to it: 1. http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/ Full of stunningly well … Read more…

Climbs and Climbers to Follow – Weds 7/7/10

Posted on: July 7th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Tents in front of peak in China

Just about every day I stumble upon a new climbing blog or expedition report, or some other venue online where climbers are doing major things and reporting in on their progress. Many of the ones that come through the AAC office are from grant winners,  attempting big routes with AAC … Read more…

Climbers: Weigh in on Yosemite’s Future

Posted on: June 18th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Yosemite Valley

Below is an important message from Linda McMillan, committee chair for the AAC’s Yosemite Committee as well as a representative for the AAC on the UIAA’s Protection Commission. AAC Members, In February, we helped submit comments during the scoping period for Yosemite’s Merced Wild and Scenic River Plan. There will … Read more…

6000 Miles, 100 Interviews, 50 Places…To Make a Film

Posted on: June 17th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

We’d love to point you over to a film project in the works by Oakley Anderson-Moore, “The Last Wild Mountain: Portrait of the American Climber.” Oakley and her team have spent the last three years traveling around the country interviewing climbers– young, old, big name and everyday– to gather the … Read more…

Two Climbers Needed (Soon!) for Italian Climbers’ Meet

Posted on: June 9th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Climbing in Valle Orco.

The AAC can nominate two US climbers to take part in the First International “Trad” Climbing Meeting, organized by the Club Alpino Accademico Italiano (CAAI, a national section of Club Alpino Italiano). The deadline is June 14, so we need you to act quickly to represent the AAC in Italy. … Read more…

Telling Climbers’ Stories

Posted on: April 14th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

We celebrate climbing every day – from the Alpinist to the local boulderer, from the “accomplished” veterans that inspire us all to the young up-and-coming climbers setting new standards. One of the greatest resources of the AAC (not to toot our own horn) is the access to the history of … Read more…

Reign of Terror: AAC Members Put Up New Route in New Zealand

Posted on: February 24th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Reign of Terror Topo

Terror Peak is an imposing hunk of granite just south of Milford Sound, New Zealand. It is fairly remote, and was only first climbed in 2008. The first ascent was done by Hugh Barnard and Martin Wilson with their route War on Terror, grade 21/10d. My partner, Nick Flyvberg and … Read more…

The AAC Dinner: A Young Climber’s Perspective

Posted on: February 22nd, 2010 by DougaldM

When I received my invite to the AAC Annual Dinner, my initial thought was, “Do I belong?” I was under the impression that I had no place attending a fancy dinner with some old crusty climbers. Then I started thinking about what it would mean to be in a room … Read more…

DVD Release: Waypoint Namibia

Posted on: January 8th, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Photo: Gabe Rogel

In this post back in September , we let you know about Majka Burhardt’s film project, “WayPoint Namibia.” The film is now officially out on DVD, so check it out when you get a chance. The bonus? 5% of your purchase of “WayPoint Namibia” will be donated to the Integrated … Read more…

Blind and Naked: Erik Weihenmayer on the Edge

Posted on: December 8th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

As reported on Climbing Narc, Erik Weihenmayer recently teamed up with Charley Mace and Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson to accomplish his hardest route to date: The Naked Edge (5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, CO. Props to Cedar Wright and film crew for filming the seven pitches of sustained 5.11 … Read more…

Portraits of Craggers

Posted on: October 20th, 2009 by DougaldM

Salt Lake City photographer Nathan Smith shot portraits of dozens of climbers at the 2009 Craggin’ Classic in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Know everyone here? The person who emails Smith with the most complete list of names of these climbers, in order, will win an 8 x 10 print of his … Read more…

Update: Taking the No Out of Noshaq

Posted on: October 16th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

A while back, we reported on the Afghan team attempting to climb their country’s highest peak, Noshaq. Check out the video below for the story of their expedition and summit celebration. Congratulations to this team on a very important climb for the country of Afghanistan. http://www.france24.com/en/20091006-summit-hope-afghanistan-rock-climbing-whakan-mountain-expedition

Spitzer Team Goes Big in China

Posted on: October 2nd, 2009 by DougaldM
The north face of Xuelian West, with the American-Scottish route marked. Courtesy of Jed Brown.

A small American-Scottish expedition backed by a Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC has made significant climbs on the Chinese side of the Tien Shan. Americans Kyle Dempster and Jared Vilhauer, sponsored by the 2009 Spitzer grant, along with American Jed Brown and Scotsman Bruce Normand, scored several new … Read more…

Youth Grant Winner Climbs in the Bugaboos

Posted on: September 15th, 2009 by DougaldM
Bugaboo Spire (left) and Snowpatch Spire from South Howser Tower. Photo by Luke Laeser.

AAC Mountain Fellowship winner Aaron Jones had an eye-opening trip to the Bugaboos in August. Aaron bagged seven summits, but still didn’t achieve his complete goals. But bear in mind: His goals were extremely ambitious! Read his full report here. Mountain Fellowships are awarded twice a year to climbers 25 … Read more…

Teaching Women Mountaineers in Pakistan

Posted on: August 24th, 2009 by DougaldM
When will a Pakistani woman climb K2? That day may have gotten a bit closer with a recently completed women

In 2007, a group of American Alpine Club women planned to travel to Pakistan to help organize and teach a Pakistani Women’s Climbing Camp, in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP). That plan was postponed in the wake of the violent siege of the Red Mosque in Islamabad … Read more…

AAC Library Volunteer Climbs Spearhead in RMNP

Posted on: August 19th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
Pete on the approach to Spearhead, in the background. Photo courtesy of Adam McFarren.

It’s not always what the pros are doing that inspires the rest of us. Last weekend, AAC member Adam McFarren (also a valued volunteer in the AAC library) sent a recap of his ascent of the north ridge of  Spearhead, a classic route in Rocky Mountain National Park that sits … Read more…

Keeping the Noise Down on Denali

Posted on: August 3rd, 2009 by DougaldM
A "sound station" on the Ruth Glacier is monitoring the noise level of aircraft landing on the glacier. NPS Photo.

The Denali Overflights Council has produced a set of voluntary “best practices” for air tour operators in Denali National Park, designed to reduce the noise impacts of airplanes in the park. Charlie Sassara, past treasurer and board member of the American Alpine Club, is representing mountaineers on the council, which … Read more…

Alpine Briefs 4

Posted on: August 1st, 2009 by DougaldM
Alpine Briefs 4

The fourth edition of the Alpine Briefs has been published. The Alpine Briefs is an (ir)regular newsletter from the editors of the American Alpine Journal. The new edition features climbs in the Cascades, Southeast Alaska, and Pakistan, a stunning photo from Patagonia, videos from new routes in Alaska, and much … Read more…

AAC Members Conrad Anker and Peter Croft on Incredible Hulk

Posted on: July 30th, 2009 by Craig Hoffman

The Incredible Hulk – Solar Flare from Jeffery Morse on Vimeo. Shot by Jim Surrette.

First-Ascent Blitz in Alaska

Posted on: July 27th, 2009 by DougaldM
Southeast Ridge

Mountain Fellowship winner Blake Herrington reports on his recent run of big new rock climbs in Alaska. On July 9, Jason Nelson and I caught a helicopter from Juneau to the Mendenhall Glacier’s upper reaches, intending to climb new routes among the Taku or Mendenhall towers. Jason is from Ouray, … Read more…

Two New Trip Reports at AAC Website

Posted on: July 13th, 2009 by DougaldM
David Gottlieb during the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang. Photo by Joe Puryear.

Two trip reports from successful expeditions by AAC grant recipients have been posted at www.AmericanAlpineClub.org. Joe Puryear, winner of a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award, has posted a profusely illustrated account of his first ascent of 6,778-meter Jobo Rinjang in Nepal with David Gottlieb in April. And Mountain Fellowship winner … Read more…

Fourth of July First Ascent on Burkett Needle

Posted on: July 8th, 2009 by DougaldM
Burkett_Needle

Seizing the day during a window of high pressure, AAC member Dave Burdick and partner John Frieh snagged the first ascent of the beautiful west ridge of Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska during a three-day round trip from the airport. After a helicopter approach and hike to high camp, they … Read more…

Taking the No out of Noshaq

Posted on: July 1st, 2009 by admin
The Afgan Climbers on NoShaq

Noshaq, the highest peak of Afghanistan (7,492 meters; 24,580 feet), has never been climbed by any Afghan citizen…but that may soon change. Four Afghan climbers originating from the Wakhan valley joined a mountaineering course in the Alps last month, and are now poised to climb Noshaq. Their goal is to … Read more…

Jack and Jay Go to Alaska

Posted on: June 23rd, 2009 by DougaldM
Jay Smith leading beautiful ice on the first ascent of the Black Pearl on the Scottish Wall, south of Mt. Huntington. Photo by Jack Tackle.

What’s left to do in Alaska after 28 climbing trips in 24 separate years? For AAC treasurer Jack Tackle, along with longtime member Jay Smith (himself a veteran of many Alaska Range new routes), what’s left was four new routes in two and a half weeks. Tackle said this blitzkrieg … Read more…