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Archive for the ‘Climbs and Climbers’ Category

‘When Climbing Was Dangerous and Sex Was Safe’

Posted on: February 13th, 2014 by The AAC
AAC_annualevent_Feb_2014-1017

By John Heilprin, AAC Board Director / Chairman of AAC Information & Marketing  Committee The American Alpine Club hosts hundreds of events every year, but the most anticipated is the Annual Benefit Dinner. With Yvon Chouinard as our special guest in Denver last weekend, nearly 600 members enjoyed a rare … Read more…

‘When Climbing Was Dangerous and Sex Was Safe’

Posted on: February 13th, 2014 by The AAC
AAC_annualevent_Feb_2014-1017

By John Heilprin, AAC Board Director / Chairman of AAC Information & Marketing  Committee The American Alpine Club hosts hundreds of events every year, but the most anticipated is the Annual Benefit Dinner. With Yvon Chouinard as our special guest in Denver last weekend, nearly 600 members enjoyed a rare … Read more…

First Ascents and Friendship in Greenland

Posted on: December 5th, 2013 by The AAC
Photo credit: AAC member Quinn Brett.

2013 Copp-Dash Inspire Award winners Quinn Brett, Lizzy Scully, and Prairie Kearney journeyed to Greenland this past summer. The Copp-Dash was formed to assist climbers before, during, and after expeditions with financial grants and multimedia instruction to help empower them to share their current and future adventures with a wider audience. … Read more…

Terrorism in Pakistan: Tragedy with Many Losses

Posted on: June 25th, 2013 by The AAC

By Phil Powers, AAC Executive Director This week a climber died in the Tetons and Taliban militants killed 10 climbers at Nanga Parbat’s base camp. The difference is not that the 10 were on one of the most dangerous mountains in the world. It is that they were not climbing … Read more…

Everest: Then and Now

Posted on: May 1st, 2013 by The AAC

By Phil Powers, AAC Executive Director Fifty years ago today Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu stood atop Mount Everest. Jim was the first American to go there. He went in close partnership with his Sherpa friend and employee. Today we see lines of people staked up like ants, tent cities … Read more…

Renan Ozturk: The Story Behind the Limited Edition 2012 AAJ

Posted on: September 7th, 2012 by The AAC

This year, artist and climber Renan Ozturk collaborated with The American Alpine Journal to create a limited-edition, hardbound AAJ. The result: a beautiful inset featuring a special print of the Garhwal Himalaya, inspired by Renan’s climb with partners Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker on Meru’s “Shark Fin.”  The story of Renan, Jimmy, and … Read more…

Colorado’s Alpine Bouldering – First Ascent Fever

Posted on: August 30th, 2012 by The AAC

By Jon Glassberg. The 2012 Colorado alpine bouldering season was a carbon copy of the last decade of development. Area development often happens in cycles, and “new” zones are discovered and rediscovered in a pattern that can be predicted like clockwork. I have watched countless areas in the high country … Read more…

Expedition Reflections on the Incan Odyssey

Posted on: August 16th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Paige Classen during the Incan Odyssey.

By Paige Classen. I’m not much of a boulderer, and I’m even less of an alpine climber. So when Marmot invited me to join a team of athletes venturing to Peru to develop unclimbed boulders and climb 6000 meter peaks, I had no idea why I had made the list. … Read more…

Cory Richards On His Rowell Award

Posted on: August 13th, 2012 by Luke Bauer
At the 2012 Mountainfilm Coffee Talk featuring Cory. Photo Courtesy Melissa Plantz

Cory Richards wrote to us about his acceptance of the Rowell Award. The Rowell Award—For The Art of Adventure honors an adventurer whose artistic passion illuminates the wild places of the world, and whose accomplishments significantly benefit both the environment and the people who inhabit these lands and regions. It was … Read more…

Only in Alaska! Our Volunteers: Cindi Squire

Posted on: August 7th, 2012 by Alaska Section

Alaska Section Co-Chair Cindi Squire wrote to us about her experiences climbing in Alaska. From the belay, I smile and look back over my shoulder at the immense, sweeping view of the mountains around me. It is amazing to think that some people never get to see this view or … Read more…

Emily Harrington’s Everest Lessons

Posted on: July 31st, 2012 by Abbey Smith
The team at Camp 2 during our summit bid.  Photo Courtesy Emily Harrington.

Mount Everest isn’t supposed to be a difficult mountain to climb. “Climbing” is often not even used to describe the act of reaching the summit of the world’s tallest peak. “It’s just walking. It’s not hard.” was something I’d often heard through the years. Growing up in the climbing community … Read more…

Abbey Smith on the Hueco Rock Ranch Celebration

Posted on: July 26th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Celebrate the Hueco Rock Ranch by Joining the AAC

AAC friend Abbey Smith wrote to us in response to our One Day Member Drive to Celebrate the Hueco Rock Ranch: “When I think of “home” I think of the Hueco Rock Ranch. The place of peace, where I am whole. Desert sunshine. Majestic boulders. Starry nights. Blissful solitude. The place where … Read more…

Our Members: How Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou Makes Kids into Elite Climbers

Posted on: July 16th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Robyn Raboutou introducing children to climbing

Like tiny bees swarming a honeycomb, Boulder’s Team ABC has been attacking local and national competitions and world class climbing areas with frightening strength, intuitive movement and absolute enjoyment. Their queen bee, the renowned climber Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has fine-tuned her methods over two decades and developed a complex curriculum that’s … Read more…

Our Members: Brian Threlkeld & Paul Clifford—Northeast Live Your Dream Grant Winners

Posted on: July 12th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Paul Clifford

The “Live Your Dream” Climbing Grants are developed and administered locally with community support—each Region of the American Alpine Club has it’s own grant program. In the Northeast Region, the “Live Your Dream” Climbing Grant seeks to support climbers from a range of ages and experience levels, as well as a … Read more…

Storytellers: Peter Mortimer & Nick Rosen of Sender Films

Posted on: July 9th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Nick Rosen of Sender Films

Climbing rocks is a bizarre and obscure passion. We fall in love with a piece of stone, suffer incredible physical pain and psychological torment, and risk our hearts and lives for the beauty and purity of the rock, the environment, the moment, and ourselves. It’s not an easy task to … Read more…

Our Members: Erik Eisele—Northeast Live Your Dream Grant Winner

Posted on: July 5th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Erik Eisele

The “Live Your Dream” Climbing Grants are developed and administered locally with community support—each Region of the American Alpine Club has it’s own grant program. In the Northeast Region, the “Live Your Dream” Climbing Grant seeks to support climbers from a range of ages and experience levels, as well as a … Read more…

Our Members: Ross Trainor—Climbing, Fishing, Conserving the Environment

Posted on: June 29th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
Bears!

AAC member Ross Trainor sent us this post about his recent bear and mosquito-plagued climbing and canoeing trip in Alaska.  It was curiosity that brought me into commercial fishing. Curiosity got me to Alaska, and it again made me want to venture up the Naknek River and lake to the … Read more…

Storytellers: Chris Alstrin

Posted on: June 26th, 2012 by Pete Takeda
Chris Alstrin on a cold day in Hyalite Canyon, MT

Chris Alstrin is a Colorado filmmaker and member of the American Alpine Club. Alstrin has been pursuing the art for over a decade. His enthusiasm is undiminished even as his work takes him to ever higher places. He recently did some instrumental work on the Club’s newest video—The American Alpine Club 2012 … Read more…

Climbin’ in So iLL

Posted on: June 18th, 2012 by Abbey Smith
So-Ill Climbing Gym Before Renovation

Telling the stories of the climbing community is important to us. AAC friend Abbey Smith had a chat with the founders of this new—and awesome—climbing gym in St. Louis.  Ten years ago, Dave and Dan Chancellor started shaping, manufacturing and distributing So iLL climbing holds from their parents basement in … Read more…

AAC Members Head to Peru for “Inca Odyssey”

Posted on: June 12th, 2012 by Pete Takeda
Inca Odyssey Cover Photo

This June, American Alpine Club members Paige Claassen, Abbey Smith, Mick Follari, Andy Mann, and Alex Gilbert travel to Peru. Former AAC Board Member Pete Takeda is coordinating the trip with Marmot Mountain, Ltd. as sponsor. Says Takeda, “The Cordillera Blanca is a fantastic place to climb. We hope to … Read more…