Reinhold Messner (L) and Fred Beckey (R) at our Outdoor Retailer show event.

Reinhold Messner—famed alpinist, speaker, & author; first to climb all 14 8,000m peaks; first to climb Everest sans oxygen; etc—joined us at this Winter’s Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City, UT to talk about the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, alpine style & ethics, and the evolution of climbing.

The American Alpine Club sponsored the event to honor Reinhold Messner for his commitment to protecting world’s wilderness, preserving mountain history and inspiring climbers everywhere.

(Plus, thanks to Adidas for flying him to the States!)

Watch the full video—a collaboration from Chris Alstrin (Alstrin Films) and Ari Novak (Oracle Films)—below.

We want a transcript of his wonderful talk and we’d like to ask one of you to help us. The first person to email our  Content & Marketing Manager  and commit to volunteering their time to producing a complete transcript of the video will receive an AAC Care Package with some t-shirts, water bottles, stickers, and more (after we verify it, of course)!

AAC Friend Abbey Smith sat down to talk to Emily Harrington about competition jitters, and how a winning comp climber overcame her frustrations with the sport to become a winning comp climber again—only this time on ice!

I was born and raised in Boulder, CO. I began climbing in the gym at age 10, and competed in sport climbing comps through my teenage years and into my early 20s. I was a successful competition and sport climber with a narrow understanding of climbing outside my very specific discipline. Climbing for me was about training, competing (winning), and sending.  I remember one time when I was 12 and competing at Junior Nationals in Virginia. I was sitting in the isolation zone thinking, “I wish this was over. I just want to be done. I hate this.” The unfortunate thing was that I felt this way alot while competing. There was alot of pressure and I put so much emphasis on success and beating others. It was the most important part of my climbing.  
I started ice/mixed climbing with my boyfriend, Sam Elias, about two years ago now. I had two initial thoughts. One: Ice climbing is not that hard physically, but leading ice is pretty much like soloing and therefore the most terrifying and dangerous form of climbing I’ve ever done. Two: Mixed climbing is super awkward, insecure, and physically exhausting. Combine all those things with sharp points and it too is a really scary thing to do. Despite all this, there was something about it that made me want to explore it more.  
 
I don’t remember having to learn how to climb. I used to love climbing trees and was a gymnast. Climbing was a really easy thing for me to pick up. I just felt the movement and did what was natural. It was never awkward or insecure. That’s why kids can send so hard. It’s like learning a foreign language as a child, when our brains are not yet fully formed. It happens quickly and effortlessly, becomes ingrained in us and imprinted in who we are. We never forget or lose what we experience as children. We may suppress it and hide it deep within, but it’s always there somewhere.  
 
Unlike rock climbing, I had to actually learn how to move while mixed climbing. It’s nothing like climbing with your hands and feet. You’re disconnected from the rock, using tools that make your limbs longer, like a teenager who’s just had an awkward growth spurt. I’ve had trouble acquiring that intuition, the ability to “feel” whether or not I can trust a tool placement on the rock or in the ice. I still spend alot of time scratching, flailing, overgripping, and taking unexpected whippers due to that inexperience. In the past two years I’ve gained alot of knowledge by watching exceptional mixed climbers. Sam’s movements always look natural, like his tools are a part of him. He’s steady and calm, always trusting and confident. I remember watching Josh Wharton and Ines Papert climb in the Ouray Ice Festival in 2010. They both moved so fast up the comp route, no hint of effort or struggle. I keep trying to understand how they do it, but I think it takes years. I like mixed climbing because it has forced me to start at the beginning, abandon all my notions of what I thought climbing was and learn how to move differently. I also learned how to lead ice last year.  It was awful and scary at first, but I disciplined my mind and learned that it’s alright to to be afraid when I’m in control and within my physical limits. I hope that I can continue to push myself in mixed climbing and become a solid and experienced ice climber in the future.  

Perhaps the most significant ascent by Americans in 2011 was Saser Kangri II (7518 meters) in India’s Eastern Karakoram. In August, Mark Ritchie (Past AAC President), Steve Swenson (Current AAC President) and AAC member Freddie Wilkinson climbed the Southwest face for the first ascent of the second highest unclimbed peak in the world. Their climb is the highest summit first ascent completed in alpine style.

For Richey and partner Steve Swenson, both in their fifties, the climb capped long and already distinguished climbing careers. To round out the team, Richey recruited four younger alpinists—Freddie Wilkinson, Janet Bergman, Emilie Drinkwater, and Kirsten Kramer. Their expedition provides a glimpse into the future of exploratory alpinism, and highlights the tradition of multi-generational partnership that exemplifies the New England climbing community and the American Alpine Club.

“…The team spirit I felt just being out in this incredible wilderness of mountains with such close friends was immense…”

We caught up with Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson with a few questions: 

Pete Takeda: Tell us about the Saser Kangri Expedition?

Mark Richey: This expedition was great. The people and places were amazing. Not only am I pretty happy with summitting Saser Kangri but we also did a couple other things that by themselves were really great. We did the first ascent of Tsok Kangri—14 pitches of ice, like climbing the Black Dike (the New England ice classic) up the center of a 6500-meter peak—a straight shot to the top. 

Freddie Wilkinson: It was really Mark’s project. He first saw Saser Kangri II in 2001, while climbing Yamandaka with Mark Wilford. They were members of an expedition led by Chris Bonington. Mark went back with Steve Swenson, Wilford, and Jim Lowther and made a strong attempt and recon in 2009. I was lucky to be included in the project after so much work had already been done!

 PT: How long did the project take to come to fruition?

MR: It took four attempts spread out over two expeditions. The challenge was not just the climbing, but figuring everything out—permits, travel, getting to the mountain, figuring out the route. It was a lot of work and it was helpful to carry some of the credentials as past President—along with Steve being current President.

FW: All I can say is that the project took three years—at least for Mark.

PT: Any defining moments in the expedition?

MR: Our expedition was it wasn’t a simple show up and climb style expedition had to be a joint expedition with India and it really helped to have the support of the AAC. Though the summit was nice, one particular thing stands out. We ran into a problem when we needed to call up rescue for Steve. I’m standing on the glacier with a sat phone and a battery that’s running down but no numbers programmed into the phone! So what do I do? I call the Penn Burris (AAC Membership Director/CFO) at the club and the entire staff jumps into action. That’s camaraderie and support in the field! It really made a difference.

FW: A lot happened in eight weeks. We had a very successful week or two bagging unclimbed 6,000 meter peaks with Janet Bergman, Emilie Drinkwater, and Kirsten Kramer. The team spirit I felt just being out in this incredible wilderness of mountains with such close friends was immense. Our actual ascent of SKII took five days round trip, and really wasn’t over until Steve was transferred into safe hands to receive extra care should he need it. 

Note: Swenson suffered an altitude related illness immediately after the successful climb. After consultation with a doctor and AAC rescue-provider Global Rescue over the sat phone, the team asked for an evacuation by Indian Air Force helicopter. More info on the climb can be found at the end of this post. 

PT: Does a project like this reflect the values of the AAC? The resources?

MR: It was great to have the support of the club obviously and honestly with any expedition we really needed the insurance for one thing and it worked perfectly and probably saved Steve’s life. The other thing at the club brought in was the information resources and networking. You get to know other climbers being in the club. That’s how I met Steve and others for this trip and others.

FW: Certainly this trip could have had a very different ending were it not for the kind of close expedition support that only the AAC can provide. And when we needed help, it was clutch having the AAC and Global Rescue in support. I also think the camaraderie and breathe of experience amongst our team is sort of representative of the club in general.

PT: Where does this success stand in the spectrum of your climbing career?

MR: Saser Kangri II was a high point, certainly right up there with other things I’ve done. It’s one of the things I’m most proud of. 

FW: It was an incredible adventure, one I’m sure I’ll remember with great fondness for the rest of my life.

The full length premiere of Freddie’s movie on the ascent will be at the Club’s Annual Dinner this March 3 in Boston. Watch the trailer below. One lucky ticket-holder will meet the Saser Kangri team and win a unique prize package as well! 

The Old Breed from Cowboy Bear Ninja on Vimeo.

More on Saser Kangri II from Inclined:

Download Mr. Richey’s report in .PDF format.

Read the other entries:

Saser Kangri II Day 1

Saser Kangri II Day 2

Saser Kangri II Day 3

Saser Kangri II Day 4—The Summit

Saser Kangri II—The Descent

The story of their expedition provides more than a glimpse into the future of exploratory alpinism. It highlights the powerful tradition long exemplified by the New England climbing community and The American Alpine Club: partnership across generations. The team will be the keynote presenters at this year’s AAC Annual Benefit Dinner.

Buy your tickets by February 6 and win a prize package so unique that it cannot be bought. The giveaway will offer one winner the following items, redeemable in Boston at the 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner on March 3:

• Two VIP Passes to the Annual Dinner. The VIP reception, overlooking Boston Harbor, is an intimate gathering of North America’s most accomplished climbers and mountaineers. The guest list includes Jack Tackle, Tom Hornbein, Janet Bergman, John Bragg, Jimmy Surette, and more.

• Ice Axe signed in person by the Saser Kangri II team. Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson—the evening’s keynote presenters—recently summited the world’s second-highest unclimbed mountain and will sign a special axe to the winner.

• $100 toward the Silent Auction, which includes climbing art, one-of-a-kind trips, and gear packages from The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, and Outdoor Research 

• AAC backpack filled with goodies, including a signed hardback of One Mountain Thousand Summits, the acclaimed book by Wilkinson. At the dinner, he will premiere The Old Breed, a video masterpiece about the Saser Kangri II expedition. Watch Trailer