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Swiss Route Repeated on Cima Ovest

Posted on: October 3rd, 2011 by The AAC

AAC Member David Falt and his partner Helen Manancourt recently completed a bold repeat of the Swiss Route on Cima Ovest.  This peak, part of the Tre Cime trio, features a handful of routes up its north face.  David and Helen climbed until dark, and then spent an unplanned bivy high on the wall.  The 600-meter Swiss Route was put up in 1959 and first freed in 1989.  The first onsight was in 1998, and this most recent ascent is a rare one; not only did David onsight it as well (except for a small bit of A0 on pitch 8…), he thinks it could possibly be the second female ascent of this storied route.  The route is quite committing in nature, being impossible to rap off after pitch 4.  David was on Tre Cime in July during a terrible weather window (click here to read about it), but this time he found perfect conditions and completed the route in great style.Beginning of Swiss Route, Cima OvestWe’ve reposted an excerpt of his trip report here.  To read the whole post, visit David’s blog e9climbing.blogspot.com.
We set off from the parking at 05.10 am and started climbing around 07.00…. Not too sure as we had no working time piece… The climbing is really sustained and I had told Helen not to underestimate the “easy” pitches being graded under 7a…. I was more than right and the hardest pitch for me was as I had predicted the 6c+ pitch after the 7b+ “crux” pitch. In my opinion there is no 6b climbing on the route and the 7a+ in the roof was not too bad, neither was the crux pitch. The exposure and runouts are badass on the “easy” pitches. My personal grade for the route is E7/6B (5.12c R/X).

David is a recent AAC Member and spends lots of time climbing long routes in the Alps.  His climbs are well documented on his blog–explore it for further info!

Congratulations to David and Helen on this amazing climb!

Sources: David Falt, http://e9climbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/spirit-of-purity-and-exposure.html

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