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Archive for April, 2010

From The Archives: 1958 Bugaboos to Rogers Pass Traverse

Posted on: April 28th, 2010 by AAC Library

One of the many things that makes the AAC Library special are the unique archives and personal papers donated by our members.   The library is much obliged to Bob and Jenny French for the donation of slides and supporting documents about his pioneering trip and for their hard work in … Read more…

sPeaker Series, May 5th: Mountain2Mountain in Afghanistan

Posted on: April 26th, 2010 by AAC Library
phil photo

The Mountaineering Museum presents: Mountain 2 Mountain Breaking Barriers on Two Wheels in Afghanistan May 5th 2010 @ 7:00PM (Museum Open @ 5:30) Shannon Galpin has travelled to Afghanistan five times in the past two years on behalf of her fledging non profit, Mountain 2 Mountain.  Established to strike at … Read more…

Hut Discounts: It Doesn’t Hurt to Ask

Posted on: April 26th, 2010 by admin

Two friends and I just completed the Haute Route ski tour from Chamonix to Zermatt, via Verbier, and we had good luck using our AAC memberships to get discounts on hut lodging. All three of us carried our member cards, mostly in case we needed to call on Global Rescue … Read more…

AAC SW Section Malibu Day

Posted on: April 23rd, 2010 by Southwest Section

The day started with six climbers meeting at Malibu Creek State Park to set a target. With the lovely Mary Tomkins’ guidance, we set out for Power Wall. This involves climbing past a dam and a little boulder-hopping down a pretty gorge, and was quite worthwhile since the Wall sits … Read more…

Himalayan Standby Helicopter Rescue Service in Place this Spring

Posted on: April 23rd, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Longline rescue of Tomaz Humar

As reported on, Air Zermatt of Switzerland and Fishtail Air of Nepal are coming together this spring to put in place the first standby helicopter rescue service in the Himalaya, with one helicopter ready in the Khumbu area and a second rescue chopper on call in the Dhaulagiri region. … Read more…

“Unfiltered” Daniel Woods on Turkey’s Over the Top

Posted on: April 22nd, 2010 by Erik Lambert

Check out video #4 on the Vertical Carnival dispatches from Turkey, profiling TNF athlete, AAC member, and first-to-put-up v16 Daniel Woods. As always, stunning video work by Renan Ozturk. Thanks to the Vertical Carnival team for letting us reproduce it here. FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #4 from camp4 collective on Vimeo.

Urgent Request on Behalf of Tibetan Earthquake Survivors

Posted on: April 21st, 2010 by Erik Lambert
Tibetan Earthquake rescue photo

Dear  AAC friends, As conservators of the great outdoors, I imagine many of you have visited the Himalayas, reveled in its vast beauty, and enjoyed the company and hospitality of the  Tibetans, Sherpa and Nepalis who live there. Despite its invaluable cultural and natural assets,  many people in the Himalayas … Read more…

A Letter From Royal Robbins

Posted on: April 16th, 2010 by AAC Library

Dear AAC Member, I was recently working on the first volume of my new autobiography, To Be Brave, when I called the AAC Library and asked about information from Mugelnoos, the long-time newsletter of the Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club. I was looking for a few particularly rare … Read more…

AAC President on “Human Waste and Trash Accumulating on the Glaciers”

Posted on: April 15th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

The transcript below was originally published in the Times of India, April 14, 2010, page 22. Steve Swenson, 56, is president of the American Alpine Club. He is currently working on a book documenting his 30 years of climbing in Kashmir in the Karakoram mountains of India, Pakistan, and China. … Read more…

Summer Book Club Selections

Posted on: April 14th, 2010 by AAC Library

The latest dispatch from Jim Moss about the AAC’s Golden, Colorado Book Club.   Stay tuned for more information about book clubs in your local section and on Facebook,  and in the meantime, join the discussion on our Google Group! May 11: The Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, Herman Buhl To this day, … Read more…

Telling Climbers’ Stories

Posted on: April 14th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

We celebrate climbing every day – from the Alpinist to the local boulderer, from the “accomplished” veterans that inspire us all to the young up-and-coming climbers setting new standards. One of the greatest resources of the AAC (not to toot our own horn) is the access to the history of … Read more…

Spitzer Winner Earns Piolet d’Or

Posted on: April 12th, 2010 by admin

Kyle Dempster, winner of a Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award from the AAC, has earned a Piolet d’Or with teammates Jed Brown and Bruce Normand for their first ascent of the north face of Xuelian West in China. The American-Scottish team was one of two recipients of 2010 Piolets d’Or; … Read more…

April 13th is Book Club!

Posted on: April 9th, 2010 by AAC Library

This month’s book club discussion is about K2: The Savage Mountain.  Two of the authors,  Charles Houston and Robert Bates, are being inducted into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence this Saturday,  so we’ve got a small exhibit up in the American Mountaineering Center that includes the famous Red Umbrella, which … Read more…

Recap Of Movie Night In Athens, GA

Posted on: April 7th, 2010 by Luke Bauer

  The movie night at Active Climbing in Athens, GA was great! We had 50 or 60 people there with tons of beer and pizza and we showed the movie Mountain of Storms. I gave a quick talk about the AAC – and asked anyone interested to come and chat with … Read more…

Tonight! Phil Powers: Life lessons from K2 and other big mountains

Posted on: April 7th, 2010 by AAC Library
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The Mountaineering Museum presents: Phil Powers Life lessons from K2 and other big mountains April 7th 2010 @ 7:00PM (Museum Reception @ 5:30) Powers is author of Wilderness Mountaineering and Climbing: Expedition Planning. His essay, “The Importance of Pace“, was aired on NPR’s “This I Believe” in 2006. Powers has … Read more…

Ouray Ice Trip Report

Posted on: April 7th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

Front Range Section Chair Chris Pruchnic and a group of others made a trek to Ouray in January. He hopes to make it a yearly event for Front Range members. Here’s his story… Ten of us traveled from Denver to Ouray, making a pilgrimage to the city of ice and … Read more…

New Museum Billboard

Posted on: April 5th, 2010 by AAC Library

NE Section Members Share Laughs And Climbing Tales At 14th Annual Dinner

Posted on: April 5th, 2010 by New England Section

The New England section hosted its fourteenth annual dinner at the ever elegant Henderson House on March 20th. Walt Hampton, a Connecticut member, exhibited his photography presentation “Where Awe Dwells: Journeys in the Great Ranges” during the cocktail hour. This year we welcomed two new members into our section, Luke … Read more…

AAC Member Heidi Kloos Perishes in Avalanche

Posted on: April 5th, 2010 by Erik Lambert

RIDGWAY , Colo. — Experienced alpine guide Heidi Kloos, 41, died in an avalanche on Tuesday, March 30, 2010. It is believed that Kloos was ascending on skis to a remote ice climb on Mt. Baldy in the Cimarron Mountains east of Ridgway, Colorado, when a slide released from above … Read more…

Lumpy Ridge Reunion Planned

Posted on: April 2nd, 2010 by admin

This fall will mark the 10th anniversary of the Lumpy Trails Day in Rocky Mountain National Park. To celebrate, longtime event organizer and past AAC Central Rockies Section chair Greg Sievers is organizing a reunion of Lumpy climbers from several generations: three days of parties, gear demos, slide shows, and, … Read more…