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Archive for December, 2009

Announcing an AAC video contest! Submit your best and win.

Posted on: December 30th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

Spare time over the holiday? The AAC is holding a holiday video contest, and we want to hear from our many talented members making videos of their climbing pursuits. What’s at Stake: The first 50 entries into our holiday video contest, selected or not, will receive an AAC-engraved Piranha knife … Read more…

Grant News: New Mountain Fellowships, Zack Martin Report

Posted on: December 23rd, 2009 by DougaldM
Matt Hepp nearing the summit of Denbor Brakk in Pakistan during an expedition funded in part by a Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant. Photo by Clint Ellis.

The AAC has awarded five new Mountain Fellowship grants to young climbers, to help pay for expeditions to Alaska and South America. They are: • Bryan Friedrichs (24), $700, to attempt a new route on the Tusk in Alaska. • Roberto Gonzales-Pita (21) and Greg Mionske (21), $800 each from … Read more…

Memorial Information for Guy Lacelle

Posted on: December 22nd, 2009 by Erik Lambert

A memorial event in celebration of Guy Lacelle’s life is set for January 16 in Canmore, with more details forthcoming via the Banff Mountain Film Festival Facebook page and the En Memoire de Guy Lacelle Facebook page. The event will be an evening of stories and salutations to Guy, and … Read more…

Holiday Library Hours

Posted on: December 21st, 2009 by aaclibrary

The AAC Library will be closed starting Thursday, December 24th and will reopen on Tuesday, January 5th, so please make sure to get your bookmail requests in today or tomorrow so we can mail them out to you before we go! Happy Holidays and we’ll see you in the New … Read more…

2010 BMC International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet: Open to AAC Applicants

Posted on: December 21st, 2009 by Erik Lambert
A climber on Commando Ridge. Image courtesy of the BMC.

The AAC is looking for two climbers to nominate to attend the British Mountaineering Council’s 2010 International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet. The BMC event will be held May 9-16 at the all-new location of the Count House in Cornwall (UK), a 200-year old house perched above the granite cliff of … Read more…

Pakistan Maintains Lower Peak Fees for 2010

Posted on: December 21st, 2009 by DougaldM

The government of Pakistan has announced that its bargain rates on mountaineering fees will be maintained for the 2010 climbing season. Under the discount plan, which has been in place for the past several years in an effort to lure climbers to the troubled country, there is no fee for … Read more…

Grant Deadline Approaching – Jan. 1

Posted on: December 21st, 2009 by Erik Lambert

If you have been considering applying for grant funding from the AAC, please do not delay! The deadline for two major climbing grants, the Lyman-Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and the McNeill-Nott Award, is approaching quickly: all applications are due on or before January 1, 2010. This is a change from … Read more…

Check out AAJ Online

Posted on: December 18th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
A preview of the AAJ Online

First there was the AAJ Search, which brought you every article in the AAJ all the way back to 1929, when the first issue came out. Now the AAJ has taken its next great leap into the digital age with the AAJ Online. Here we’re hosting new reports destined for … Read more…

Wanted: Your Climbing Photos and Stories

Posted on: December 17th, 2009 by DougaldM

The AAC’s annual report will be mailed to members in February, and it will include more color photos than ever. We need spectacular, exciting, and humorous climbing and mountaineering shots from your favorite climbs during 2009. If you did the trip of a lifetime this year, we want to hear … Read more…

The AAC is Hiring

Posted on: December 16th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

The American Alpine Club (AAC) seeks to add a dynamic member to its senior staff for the position of Major Gifts Officer. The position requires a minimum of five years of experience in development work with direct experience soliciting funds from individuals and foundations. This position will be an integral … Read more…

Thirsty 3rd Thursday at the Museum on Dec. 17th, 5:30-8

Posted on: December 14th, 2009 by aaclibrary

Join us for our December Thirsty 3rd Thursday and holiday party! Great music by Atomic Prado! Special discounts in Base Camp gift shop, $1 beer, Holiday Cheer, and prizes! Win a FREE pair of KEEN Footwear!

World-Class Ice Climber Guy Lacelle Killed in Avalanche

Posted on: December 14th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

The climbing community has felt the need to band together in loss too many times this year, in ways only fellow climbers can understand. Continuing a string of tragedies, Canadian ice climber Guy Lacelle was killed in an avalanche last Thursday during the Bozeman Ice Festival. Lacelle and a partner … Read more…

Alaska Research Fellowships Available

Posted on: December 14th, 2009 by DougaldM
A Murie Research Fellow maps beaver dams near Denali. USGS Photo, Courtesy of Chris Arp

Two fellowship programs based in Alaska’s national parks are now accepting applications from scientific researchers. The Discover Denali Research Fellowship supports field research in and around Denali National Park and Preserve area. The Murie Science and Learning Center Research Fellowship Program is a similar grant that supports field research in eight different … Read more…

New Himalayan Database Update

Posted on: December 10th, 2009 by aaclibrary

The Spring 2009 Update to the Himalayan Database has now been posted on the Himalayan Database web site at http://www.himalayandatabase.com The update adds new records for expeditions in the Spring/Summer 2009 climbing seasons and provides corrections and additions to the records for the previous seasons from 1905-2008. The update package … Read more…

The Yak Doctor is In

Posted on: December 10th, 2009 by DougaldM

AAC member Lance Fox from Wisconsin climbed Mt. Everest from the Nepal side last spring, summiting on May 21. But that wasn’t his only accomplishment in the Khumbu. Along with his climbing gear, the veterinarian shipped over deworming supplies to help treat the local people’s yaks and yak hybrids. Fox … Read more…

Winter Book Club Picks: Start Your Reading

Posted on: December 9th, 2009 by aaclibrary

January 12:  Halfway to Heaven by Mark Obmascik February 9:Forever on the Mountain by James M. Tabor March 9: Beyond the Mountain by Steve House April 13: K2, the Savage Mountain by Charlie Houston and Bob Bates You can check these books out from the library if you are an … Read more…

Indonesia’s Many Mountains Unveiled

Posted on: December 9th, 2009 by DougaldM
Rinjani, 12,224 feet, is Indonesia

Two English expats have launched a website called Gunung Bagging, featuring a list of all the mountains and volcanoes in Indonesia with 1,000 meters or more of prominence. (Gunung means “mountain” in Indonesia.) The website eventually will include hiking tips, photographs, and route descriptions for all of the peaks, and … Read more…

Blind and Naked: Erik Weihenmayer on the Edge

Posted on: December 8th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

As reported on Climbing Narc, Erik Weihenmayer recently teamed up with Charley Mace and Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson to accomplish his hardest route to date: The Naked Edge (5.11b) in Eldorado Canyon, CO. Props to Cedar Wright and film crew for filming the seven pitches of sustained 5.11 … Read more…

Kilimanjaro: How to Climb Safely

Posted on: December 7th, 2009 by DougaldM
Climbing on Kilimanjaro. Photo by Jeremy Windsor

Of the 40,000 people who travel to 19,334-foot Kilimanjaro each year, half to three-quarters never reach the summit. Medical issues, including acute mountain sickness and gastro-intestinal problems, are at the root of many failed attempts. Hoping to address these issues and thus allow more climbers to succeed on Africa’s highest … Read more…

India May Ease Access to Peaks in Ladakh

Posted on: December 2nd, 2009 by DougaldM

According to news reports, the Indian defense ministry has agreed to open as many as 104 mountains in Ladakh to climbers. The  final decision must come from the Ministry of Home Affairs. Recently, officials relaxed the Protected Areas Permit Regime to allow foreigners to visit the village of Turtuk in … Read more…