We are excited to announce that Jed Williamson, past president of the AAC and celebrated member of our community, has recently been awarded the first annual Charles (Reb) Gregg Award for Wilderness Risk Management. View the press release here. Congratulations, Jed.
The library will be open today with regular hours, noon to 5pm. Don’t forget to check out our Skiing DVDs! [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ca1CyxpkKS4] av F 912 .M2 W47 Wilcox, Rick. West buttress, Mt. McKinley ski ascent. [United States]: Rick Wilcox, [199u]. av GV 706.4 .K56 1992 Strassman, Michael A. Know limits : … Read more…
The irrepressible Rob Pizem sent us this trip report from a desert crack-climbing adventure in September along the Green River in Utah. Most of the time when you prepare for a climbing trip, you pore over guidebooks, look at photos, and talk to everyone you know about what climbs you … Read more…
Conrad recently came through town as part of TNF Speaker Series. Thanks to Renan Ozturk for this film of him on Eldorado Canyon’s Naked Edge. Enjoy. A Day in the Life from renan ozturk on Vimeo.
On October 9, PBS host Bill Moyers aired a tribute to his friend Dr. Charles Houston, who died September 27 at age 96. Moyers replayed an interview with Houston from 2004, filled with historical images and footage, and you can play the clip, read a good biography of Houston, and … Read more…
In the late summer of 2006, Lizzy Scully and I were in Pakistan on a climbing trip off of the Biofo Glacier. After Lizzy sustained a debilitating injury up on the glacier we accepted our cooks offer and headed to his village/Khane, where we were greeted by some of the … Read more…
Salt Lake City photographer Nathan Smith shot portraits of dozens of climbers at the 2009 Craggin’ Classic in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Know everyone here? The person who emails Smith with the most complete list of names of these climbers, in order, will win an 8 x 10 print of his … Read more…
On October 26, you are invited to eat some free pizza in the library before the Eldo Canyon guidebook slideshow. The only catch is…we give you pizza, you give us some brain time. In our continued effort to make this climbing library serve climbers in the best way possible, we … Read more…
When: Oct 26, 2009, 7pm Where: American Mountaineering Center, Golden, CO ACE proudly joins Sharp End Publishing to bring you the latest climbing guide for Eldorado Canyon State Park. This full color, 450 plus page guide is available electronically, NOW. Pre-pay for the electronic and hard copy book and Sharp … Read more…
Jim Moss, the AAC’s book club volunteer facilitator, sends this missive: “The next meeting will be the FIRST Tuesday of November, November 3rd. The reason for the date change is that we will be having a special guest. The book for the November meeting is Everest: Alone at the Summit. … Read more…
A while back, we reported on the Afghan team attempting to climb their country’s highest peak, Noshaq. Check out the video below for the story of their expedition and summit celebration. Congratulations to this team on a very important climb for the country of Afghanistan. http://www.france24.com/en/20091006-summit-hope-afghanistan-rock-climbing-whakan-mountain-expedition
AAC member Douglas Fields, a neuroscientist from Maryland, has published a very interesting report in the October issue of Outside magazine about studies of mountaineers’ brain scans. It’s long been known that mountaineers may experience some permanent changes in their brains—and resulting loss of function—after climbing to extremely high altitudes without … Read more…
The Mountaineering Museum, American Alpine Club Library and Sherpa House present: YETI NIGHT @ the Museum! October 15th, 2009 5:30-9pm Join us for the first annual YETI night in the Museum! This is a fun event for YETIs of all ages and includes storytelling for the little YETIs and $1 … Read more…
At last weekend’s Craggin’ Classic, Alex Honnold accepted the Bates Award by video courtesy of Cedar Wright. Check it out below. ***Please be warned, there are a fair amount of f-bombs dropped throughout- the video is unedited. Alex Honnold Accepts the AAC’s Bates Award from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.
More than 200 climbers from over 13 different countries flocked to Salt Lake City this past weekend to celebrate climbing at the AAC’s 2nd Annual Craggin’ Classic. With extraordinary help from the Salt Lake Climber’s Alliance and AAC industry partners, the rotating annual event dove into the deep community of … Read more…
Trip reports from two expeditions backed by McNeill-Nott Awards have been posted at the AAC website. A four-person team of young climbers has made the first ascent of the east ridge of Mt. Desire in British Columbia’s Coast Mountains. On Denali, Tyler Jones and Joel Kauffman climbed the upper northwest … Read more…
We’re busy getting ready for the next exhibit at the Mountaineering Museum – Thin Air: An Exhibit on Altitude and Oxygen, November 3-May30, 2009. “Getting ready” means combing through the library and archives looking for supporting material and images. Here is one treasure from the John M. Boyle Himalayan Library: … Read more…
In 1961, after the historic first ascent of the striking rib splitting Denali’s south face, perhaps America’s finest alpine climb, the Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin sent an album of photos to Bradford Washburn, who had helped the climbers plot their route with his super-detailed aerial photos. Washburn, in … Read more…
The AAC is teaming up with Erratic Rock, Leave No Trace, MSR, and Outdoor Research on a great new initiative to recycle fuel canisters in Chilean Patagonia. The program will be headquartered at Erratic Rock: the Puerto Natales–based hostel, guide service, and all-around base camp for climbers and trekkers in … Read more…
The Mountaineering Museum presents: Best Snow Climbs and Scrambles with Dave Cooper October 7th, 2009 @ 7:00PM (Museum Reception @ 5:30) Join us for a night with Dave Cooper discussing his popular guidebooks to the best Snow Climbs and Scrambles in Colorado! “Colorado Snow Climbs” is organized by season, and … Read more…
A small American-Scottish expedition backed by a Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC has made significant climbs on the Chinese side of the Tien Shan. Americans Kyle Dempster and Jared Vilhauer, sponsored by the 2009 Spitzer grant, along with American Jed Brown and Scotsman Bruce Normand, scored several new … Read more…
AAC members have taken advantage of good late-season conditions to climb two new routes in the Tetons. In August, Paul Rachele and Landon Wiedenman noticed a new smear of ice on the Enclosure, to the right of the Visionquest Couloir, a climb that branches right from the famous Black Ice … Read more…