Craig Luebben
Craig Luebben, photo courtesy of Craig Luebben's facebook collection.
**UPDATE** Craig’s memorial service will be held this Sunday, August 16 at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. Doors will open at 3pm and the service will begin at 4pm for close family and friends.
Tributes and memorials are coming all too often this year. We know our craft is dangerous, but news of yet another tragic death should never feel commonplace or routine, to say nothing of expected. It’s an unnatural feeling when news of loss is part of the deal.
Craig Luebben had been a member of the AAC for over a decade, and as a Golden, CO resident, one of the few that we as a staff got to see and interact with on a regular basis. He was an enthusiastic regular at local events, always willing to help in every way, even if it just meant buying more beer to support the cause. His commitment and contribution to the climbing world would take quite a few more words to describe– Craig gave an incredible amount as an author, photographer, guide, father and friend.
We’re in the process of gathering stories, pictures, memories and anecdotes to share. Please do so in the comments below, or email them to us directly here.
In the meantime, can we point you to a few places to remember our friend?
Video of Craig in Vedauvoo, courtesy of the AAC Library blog, High Places
Article on Climbing.com by Dougald MacDonald
Recent Interview with Craig on FrontRangeBouldering.com
Seattle Times report on the accident
Denver Post report of the accident
I got to climb with Craig at Vedauwoo, and learnt a lot from him on many subjects related to climbing, particularly the building of anchors.
I spent three nights camping at the crags with him, and he was a humble, insightful and caring man.
I was hoping to climb with him again later this month…
RIP Craig.
I have been devastated all day, learning late last evening of Craig being fatally injured on Mt. Torment!
I’m sickened to think of what a great loss this is the the community, the climbing community and his precious family!!
I have known Craig for a number of years as a friend and teacher. He was a teacher…..a real professional, teaching us all the good things of being in the mountains, out on the rock, snow, and whatever our goal in life was to do, do it safely, and enjoy it at the same time.
I have climbed with him at the Red, as well as climbing gyms in our area, and was instrumental in securing him as a Speaker/Lecturer at the Adventure Summit at Wright State University about 3 years ago. He was a smashing success, with his slide presentation of his climbs in Cuba and around the world!
I got to know him so well, and what a unique person, totally genuine and dedicated to the sport that he helped make famous.
I will miss our Christmas Card exchanges each year as he would keep my wife Lynda and I up to date on how his beloved daughter, Giulia was skiing and how thrilled he was in seeing her on the slopes with him. He loved that little girl!!!
To Silvia, words cannot express what a wonderful person and friend he was to the rest of us out here.
Our very best to you and immediate family, as we share your sorrow, and sadness during this very traumatic time.
God Bless You, and we are there for you.
Bill Johnson
Bill Johnson Guided Tours
http://www.johnsonguidedtours.com
bjskitours@mindspring.com
I am a High School friend of Craig’s. We just had our 30th class Reunion a year ago. Him and I use to do donuts in the High School parking lot in his Camero. I knew he would be a daring person at that time. I can’t believe he’s gone?? He will be missed!! RIP
Brian
I met Graig at Colorado State University in 1984. He was my Dorm SA. Within the first month we attended the funeral of 2 students on my wing that were killed on Notch Top in RMNP. I think that must have been the first time either one of us had a friend killed on a climb. I remember the beautiful memorial slide show he put together for the residents of Braiden Hall and the Plaque that still hangs in the lobby for “Bo”.
Although I was not a serious climber by Craig’s standards, he always spoke with me as if I was, sharing his latest adventure and plan and asking me about mine.
Craigs’ life continued to cross my path over the years at the most amazing moments. He would show up in Phoenix for a slide show, or bump into me in Europe.
I have been so proud of his accomplishments and the way he lived his life. He could have done anything but he remained true to his nature and followed his heart and soul. Good lessons for most of us but often beyond our reach.
I have never personally known anyone so dedicated and driven in his training. In college, Graig would leave Fort Collins on his bike, ride to Longs Peak, hike the 13 miles to the base of the Diamond, climb 3 or 4 laps in the 5.10-5.11 range, return to his bike, and continue to his circuit by riding another 125 miles over several mountain passes before returning to Ft. Collins. This was all done marathon style with no rest and very little food or water. It was like a vision quest for Craig.
My last meeting with him was in Fort Collins. He had recently met Silvia and told me he planned to marry her. He wondered how it would be as an American married to an Italian and living in Europe. He spoke warmly of her family and her father. He seemed very thoughtful when he talked about this. He seemed to know he was starting out on a new journey in his life.
He also talked about the day that Derek Walters died free soloing in the Valley. [Craig had been free soloing another line at the same time and they were to meet up after they finished.] He described the experience of searching for and finding his friend at the base of the cliff, and how his friends had this quiet memorial service for him. The pain and loss that showed in his face was visceral and haunting. He knew he might also die doing what he loved.
He told me about his climbing buddy that had taken to jumping from some of the valley’s climbs with only climbing ropes to arrest his fall. [I think his name was Dan Osoman]
He talked about the need to ratchet up the buzz or increase the risk in order to feel alive. He looked to me like someone that felt an outside force was in control of his life. I could only nod to him silently, I knew about outside forces.
He also told me about speed climbing the nose with a buddy, and linking up several faces. There is no doubt that Craig was on of the most talented and driven climbers of his generation.
I was always amazed at the way he related to me when we bumped into each other. He always treated me as if my adventures were just as important as his. He never left me feeling less than and I know what a rare quality that was.
None of what I have shared will surprise anyone who knew Craig, they are just my memories about an incredible soul that passed though my life and left so much behind.
I know he has left so much with so many, he touched so many lives with his genuine soulful ways. My thoughts are with Silvia, Giulia, and her family and with Sari who loved him well.
Craig will always remain alive for me.
Mark Phillips
Honolulu, Hawaii