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Archive for August, 2009

From the Archives: by “Georgia” David Michael: Henry Skagway Pinkham in front of Mt. St. Elias

Posted on: August 31st, 2009 by aaclibrary

Georgia” David Michael, Henry Skagway Pinkham in front of Mt. St. Elias Originally uploaded by American Alpine Club Photo Library The AAC has a paintings collection, and, for the past year, we’ve been working on gathering information about some of them. When Dee Molenaar was in Golden for the 2008 … Read more…

New Route in Peru for McNeill-Nott Team

Posted on: August 31st, 2009 by DougaldM
Climbing Pics 002

Marcus Donaldson from Portland, Oregon, reports on a new route in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, climbed with Nate Farr. The two men received a 2009 McNeill-Nott Award for their trip. In July, Nate Farr and I visited the Cordillera Blanca with the support of the AAC and Mountain Hardwear’s McNeill-Nott climbing … Read more…

New Video of Patagonia Trails Project

Posted on: August 27th, 2009 by DougaldM
The Tin Shed

Rolando Garibotti narrates a short video about the Patagonia trails project, cosponsored by Patagonia Inc. and the AAC, at the latest incarnation of the Tin Shed, Patagonia’s superb multimedia collection of climbing, surfing, skiing, and fishing stories. Learn more about this four-year project to build sustainable climber and hiker trails … Read more…

Discovering Modern Classics in the Cascades

Posted on: August 26th, 2009 by DougaldM
Jens Holsten on the three-star new route Gorillas in the Mist on Mt. Stuart. Photo by Blake Herrington.

The Internet has done a lot to help climbers find good new routes between the publication of guidebooks, but it’s tough for even fanatic climbers to keep track of all the blog and forum posts covering their local areas. Climber Blake Herrington has tackled this issue for alpine routes in … Read more…

Book Club Fight Club: The Mountains of The Mind, Sept 8th, 6-8pm

Posted on: August 26th, 2009 by aaclibrary

Adam M and I were thinking about how to bring even more people to book club.  We thought Book Club Fight Club might do it. What do you think?  Here are the rules, stolen from the movie: 1st RULE: You do not talk about Book Club FIGHT CLUB. 2nd RULE: … Read more…

Teaching Women Mountaineers in Pakistan

Posted on: August 24th, 2009 by DougaldM
When will a Pakistani woman climb K2? That day may have gotten a bit closer with a recently completed women

In 2007, a group of American Alpine Club women planned to travel to Pakistan to help organize and teach a Pakistani Women’s Climbing Camp, in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP). That plan was postponed in the wake of the violent siege of the Red Mosque in Islamabad … Read more…

Sept. 2nd: sPeaker Series: Sybille Hectel, Fun Climbs Colorado

Posted on: August 21st, 2009 by aaclibrary

Sybille Hechtel will present on her book Fun Climbs Colorado: Best Family Climbing Vacations. $3 CMC/AAC members, $5 non-members Free to Friends of the Museum/AAC Library Museum Reception @ 5:30PM; Program at 7:00PM in Foss Auditorium

Mayhem in the Library

Posted on: August 19th, 2009 by aaclibrary
Andy and the gang from Gibbon

We had a few interesting visitors yesterday, as we sometimes do. The folks from Gibbon Slacklines stopped by to see if they could set up a line in the library. Turns out they couldn’t do it without crushing the sheetrock around the poles, but they DID seem to get pretty … Read more…

AAC Library Volunteer Climbs Spearhead in RMNP

Posted on: August 19th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
Pete on the approach to Spearhead, in the background. Photo courtesy of Adam McFarren.

It’s not always what the pros are doing that inspires the rest of us. Last weekend, AAC member Adam McFarren (also a valued volunteer in the AAC library) sent a recap of his ascent of the north ridge of  Spearhead, a classic route in Rocky Mountain National Park that sits … Read more…

Thirsty 3rd Thursday – August 20, 5:30-8pm in the Museum

Posted on: August 18th, 2009 by aaclibrary

Friends of Craig Luebben and the American Mountaineering Museum will be continuing to raise money for the Luebben family at the Museum’s Thirsty 3RD Thursday event August 20th 5:30PM – 8PM. All proceeds will go to the Luebben family. Raising money for the Luebben family, $1 Beer and music by … Read more…

Skiing the Brooks Range’s Highest Peak

Posted on: August 17th, 2009 by DougaldM
Matt Hage climbing the east ridge of Mount Chamberlin to make the first ski descent, the highest peak in the Brooks Range, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska. Photo by Joe Stock.

Earlier this summer, AAC member Joe Stock and Matt Hage made the likely first ski descent of Mt. Chamberlin, the highest peak in Alaska’s Brooks Range. When the two were dropped off at base camp at 1,500 feet, 12 miles from the foot of the peak, they saw no snow, … Read more…

Memorial and Donation Information for Craig Luebben

Posted on: August 13th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

Finalized details for Craig Luebben’s memorial service are as follows: Memorial Service (reserved for family and close friends of the Luebbens): The memorial will be held in the Foss Auditorium of the American Mountaineering Center on Sunday, August 16 at 4:00pm.  Doors will open at 3:00pm.  Seating is limited, so … Read more…

Raynaud’s and Altitude

Posted on: August 13th, 2009 by DougaldM

Researcher Andrew Luks writes: About a year and a half ago, the AAC assisted our efforts to recruit subjects for a study of Raynaud’s phenomenon at high altitude by placing a post in the club’s online newsletter. I am writing to thank you for this assistance and to let you … Read more…

Higher Education in Siberia

Posted on: August 12th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
Chris Weidner in Siberia, courtesy of Facebook

A few weeks ago, Chris Weidner posted this entry, his first reaction to the Ergaki International Climbing Festival in Siberia.  He and Alex Honnold, sponsored by the AAC,  represented the U.S. at the event. Last week, Chris recapped their experience in an article posted by the Boulder Daily Camera.  Partial … Read more…

Ozturk and Smith in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge

Posted on: August 12th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

For your Wednesday morning viewing pleasure: Black Diamond recently posted a video of Renan Ozturk and Zack Smith’s trip to Alaska in June 2009.  The trip was funded in part by an AAC McNeill-Nott Grant, and the footage was filmed by Zack and Renan during their ascents. Enjoy! For the … Read more…

Craig Luebben

Posted on: August 11th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
Craig Luebben, photo courtesy of Facebook.

**UPDATE** Craig’s memorial service will be held this Sunday, August 16 at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. Doors will open at 3pm and the service will begin at 4pm for close family and friends. Tributes and memorials are coming all too often this year. We know our craft … Read more…

Craig Luebben

Posted on: August 10th, 2009 by aaclibrary

UPDATE:  Craig’s memorial service will be held this Sunday, August 16 at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. Doors will open at 3pm and the service will begin at 4pm. All are welcome. Read more on the AAC’s Blog: Inclined Craig was an enthusiastic presence here at the library.  … Read more…

Ricardo Cassin

Posted on: August 7th, 2009 by aaclibrary

A_2005.044.001_Cassin_Ridge_Album034 Originally uploaded by American Alpine Club Photo Library There is a thread on supertopo today about the passing of Ricardo Cassin. In 2005, Bradford Washburn gave the AAC a photo album given to him by Ricardo Cassin in thanks for Washburn’s assistance “in the solution of the many problems … Read more…

Don’t Forget! Book Club is on Tuesday, Aug. 11!

Posted on: August 7th, 2009 by aaclibrary

We’ll be discussing The Price of Conquest by Lino Lacedelli, Giovanni Cenacchi, and Mark Worthington. This book covers the events of the first ascent of K2 by an Italian team in 1954. This ascent was remarkable in how it was accomplished and the litigation and acrimony that has followed the … Read more…

Cast Your Vote: 2009 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition

Posted on: August 5th, 2009 by Erik Lambert
2009 Reel Rock Film Tour

The top five creative shorts of the 2009 REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition are now online here. Vote for your favorite short film in the Humor/Spoof and Action/Inspiration category. It’s up to the community to decide who will win the $500 cash prize and massive schwag bag, as well as the … Read more…

Front Range Freaks on Wednesday, Aug.5th

Posted on: August 4th, 2009 by aaclibrary

Best of Taos Film Festival CANCELLED!! – Showing Front Range Freaks instead! [youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCpqsRA-tnE] “Hey everyone! We had to cancel the Best of Taos Film Festival and will be refunding tickets. Please come to enjoy a screening of Sender Film’s Front Range Freaks! $3 CMC/AAC members, $5 non-members, Free for Friends … Read more…

Rekindling the Flame in Alaska

Posted on: August 4th, 2009 by DougaldM
Renan Ozturk on the initial section of the Tooth Traverse, the first ascent of the south ridge of Suger Tooth. Photo by Zack Smith.

McNeill-Nott Award winner Zack Smith describes his expedition to the Ruth Gorge in the summer of 2009. In alpine climbing you do your best to anticipate the potential crux of a trip. You physically and mentally prepare for bad weather, loose rock, huge days, anything you can imagine. For the … Read more…

Alpine Briefs

Posted on: August 3rd, 2009 by aaclibrary
AAJ Alpine Briefs

The new edition of the AAJ’s newsletter, Alpine Briefs, just came out. They’ve gathered up some great footage from around the webs for your viewing pleasure. The next Alpine Briefs will feature whippers.  Point the AAJ editors to your favorite clips: aaj@americanalpineclub.org.

Keeping the Noise Down on Denali

Posted on: August 3rd, 2009 by DougaldM
A "sound station" on the Ruth Glacier is monitoring the noise level of aircraft landing on the glacier. NPS Photo.

The Denali Overflights Council has produced a set of voluntary “best practices” for air tour operators in Denali National Park, designed to reduce the noise impacts of airplanes in the park. Charlie Sassara, past treasurer and board member of the American Alpine Club, is representing mountaineers on the council, which … Read more…

Alpine Briefs 4

Posted on: August 1st, 2009 by DougaldM
Alpine Briefs 4

The fourth edition of the Alpine Briefs has been published. The Alpine Briefs is an (ir)regular newsletter from the editors of the American Alpine Journal. The new edition features climbs in the Cascades, Southeast Alaska, and Pakistan, a stunning photo from Patagonia, videos from new routes in Alaska, and much … Read more…