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Archive for July, 2009

The Best of the Taos Mountain Film Festival -Aug. 5, 6pm

Posted on: July 31st, 2009 by aaclibrary

August 5th, 2009 6:00PM Doors, 6:45PM Show – $15 Tickets available at REI and Museum Base Camp Adventure Gift Shop Member discounts do not apply. All proceeds benefit Colorado Cancer Foundation and Mountaineering Museum Join us for a night of the Best of Taos Mountain Film Festival! Showing 8 films … Read more…

AAC Members Conrad Anker and Peter Croft on Incredible Hulk

Posted on: July 30th, 2009 by Craig Hoffman

The Incredible Hulk – Solar Flare from Jeffery Morse on Vimeo. Shot by Jim Surrette.

Bid Now! Help Pick the Next Set of Washburns for Exhibit!

Posted on: July 28th, 2009 by aaclibrary
Denali North Face - (c) Bradford Washburn, courtesy Panopticon gallery, Boston, MA

BE a part of the Mountaineering Museum’s Bradford Washburn Photographs: From the Favorites exhibit! On August 18th the Mountaineering Museum and American Alpine Club Library will be displaying the second round of Bradford Washburn photographic prints and YOU get the special opportunity to pick which prints go into the exhibit! … Read more…

What our volunteers are doing this week

Posted on: July 27th, 2009 by aaclibrary

The AAC library could not function without the dedicated work of our volunteers and part-time staff.  There is a lot going on in here every day, and while Gary and I have a hand in each of these projects, we rely on the generosity and effort of these folks who … Read more…

First-Ascent Blitz in Alaska

Posted on: July 27th, 2009 by DougaldM
Southeast Ridge

Mountain Fellowship winner Blake Herrington reports on his recent run of big new rock climbs in Alaska. On July 9, Jason Nelson and I caught a helicopter from Juneau to the Mendenhall Glacier’s upper reaches, intending to climb new routes among the Taku or Mendenhall towers. Jason is from Ouray, … Read more…

Sherpa Joins Denali Climbing Patrol

Posted on: July 23rd, 2009 by DougaldM
Brandon Latham (left) and PhuNuru Sherpa. NPS Photo.

Denali National Park mountaineering ranger Brandon Latham describes his experience working with PhuNuru Sherpa on Denali’s high-mountain climbing patrol during the month of June—a climbing exchange sponsored by the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation. The South District of Denali National Park is the starting point for most expeditions heading for Mt. … Read more…

What is in the John M. Boyle Himalayan Library?

Posted on: July 21st, 2009 by aaclibrary
Postcard: 1922 Everest Expedition Members

In 1997, the American Alpine Club Library received a generous donation from John M. Boyle: The John M. Boyle Himalayan Library. This collection contains more than 2500 books in 36 different languages/dialects (approximately half of these autographed by expedition members), 400 expedition reports, and 100 videos/films and 35 boxes of … Read more…

Morass

Posted on: July 21st, 2009 by DougaldM
AR Tikchick

Last summer Althea Rogers, Kate Rutherford, Madaleine Sorkin, and I spent three weeks in southwest Alaska, near the headwaters of Bristol Bay. Supported by Mountain Fellowship and McNeill-Nott grants from the AAC, we established new routes on 400- to 900-foot granite domes south of Tikchik Lake. I wrote a feature … Read more…

Book Club: Next One is August 11th

Posted on: July 17th, 2009 by aaclibrary

The book club had another great meeting discussing Jennifer Lowe-Anker‘s Forget Me Not. The meeting was capped with a telephone conference call with Jennifer.  She is an amazing person who opened her heart and her family in Forget Me Not and was equally open on the telephone call. Forget Me … Read more…

Dancing in the Rain at the New England BBQ

Posted on: July 17th, 2009 by admin
AACers dancing in the rain on the deck, led by Teresa Richey.

Thanks to all the AAC members who were able to make it out to the annual New England summer climber’s barbecue on Saturday, July 11. It was a great party, in true New England fashion. Titoune Meunier generously hosted the event at her home in North Conway, New Hampshire, with … Read more…

AAC Twitter updates for the week –

Posted on: July 17th, 2009 by Erik Lambert

AAC Ambassador Rob Pizem free climbs 1,000ft new route (5.11)in Norway http://tinyurl.com/mbvszr # Jeff Lowe was recently awarded an Honorary Membership to the AAC, the highest honor. Read it here: http://tinyurl.com/nluhfv # Front Range climbers: preview Steve Levin's new Eldo Canyon guidebook: http://tinyurl.com/lzals7 # Supertopo highlight on the AAC Library's … Read more…

Jeff Lowe, AAC’s Newest Honorary Member

Posted on: July 16th, 2009 by aaclibrary

The AAC just announced award of honorary membership to Jeff Lowe, so here is a list of books and videos available in the library: GV 200 .C59 1987  Salkeld, Audrey. The Climber’s handbook. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books,  [1987].   A chapter on ice by Jeff Lowe av GV 199.44 .K37 … Read more…

Thirsty Thursday at the Mountaineering Museum – July 16th, 5:30pm

Posted on: July 15th, 2009 by aaclibrary

$1 Beer! Join us for great music by Atomic Prado and drinks in the museum! On facebook Phone: 3039962755 Email: info@mountaineeringmuseum.org

The AAC to Honor Jeff Lowe

Posted on: July 15th, 2009 by guest
jeff-lowe

Honorary Membership in the AAC is not merely about climbing achievement. Jeff Lowe has already received the AAC’s Underhill Award which celebrates lifetime climbing achievement. It is fair to say that his climbing resume is probably unparalleled in American climbing history. Most informed people are aware of Latok I, Shipton … Read more…

Culture, Climbing, and Competition in Russia

Posted on: July 14th, 2009 by admin

Siberia: a cruel place of exile, unimaginable cold, gulags, emptiness. In 1982 Russian geologists exploring a remote region of Siberia discovered a family of raskolniki (Russian Orthodox Old Believers) who had been living in hiding since the early 1900s. They weren’t aware of the fall of the tsar (at the … Read more…

Two New Trip Reports at AAC Website

Posted on: July 13th, 2009 by DougaldM
David Gottlieb during the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang. Photo by Joe Puryear.

Two trip reports from successful expeditions by AAC grant recipients have been posted at www.AmericanAlpineClub.org. Joe Puryear, winner of a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award, has posted a profusely illustrated account of his first ascent of 6,778-meter Jobo Rinjang in Nepal with David Gottlieb in April. And Mountain Fellowship winner … Read more…

Spitzer Winner Completes Stunning Baffin Solo

Posted on: July 8th, 2009 by DougaldM
Dave Turner

Dave Turner, winner of a 2009 Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the AAC, soloed a major new route in Baffin Island during a 65-day expedition this spring. Turner climbed the 1,400-meter north arête and face of Broad Peak (ca 1,800m) in a remarkable lightweight, single-push effort. Turner traveled with Inuit … Read more…

The Library Has Books

Posted on: July 8th, 2009 by aaclibrary
The Gunks

Just a reminder that if you are looking for some summer reading without spending money, the library can help, plus it’s a great place to sit and read on your rest day, or when it’s raining. And if you don’t live here – no worries! We’ll mail the book to … Read more…

Fourth of July First Ascent on Burkett Needle

Posted on: July 8th, 2009 by DougaldM
Burkett_Needle

Seizing the day during a window of high pressure, AAC member Dave Burdick and partner John Frieh snagged the first ascent of the beautiful west ridge of Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska during a three-day round trip from the airport. After a helicopter approach and hike to high camp, they … Read more…

John Bachar – Party of One

Posted on: July 7th, 2009 by guest
John Bachar locked in on Butterballs (5.11c) during his historic solo ascent of the three-pitch Nabisco Wall               (c) Mark Chapman

As we all know by now, another beloved member of the climbing community – this time John Bachar – has died in a climbing accident.  John died at the Dike Wall near his home in Mammoth Lakes, CA, on July 5th.  In his memory, I wanted to share what I … Read more…

AAC Twitter updates for the week –

Posted on: July 3rd, 2009 by Erik Lambert

Jim McCarthy on supertopo today http://tinyurl.com/lv9zkb # 22Local posted a great video recap of the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch work week: http://tinyurl.com/mkm446 #

Library Closed July 3rd and 4th

Posted on: July 2nd, 2009 by aaclibrary

The library will be closed on Friday July 3rd and Saturday July 4th. We will open with normal hours on Tuesday, July 7th, noon to 7pm.  Have a great weekend!

Work week: a climbers’ ranch tradition

Posted on: July 2nd, 2009 by guest
Photo by Robert Hyman

For the last forty years, the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch has served as an invaluable resource to climbers around the world who make the pilgrimage to the Tetons in search of mountain climbing and adventure. With rumors of the annual “Work Week” floating around, 22Local sent correspondent Chris Dickey to check out the scene.

Taking the No out of Noshaq

Posted on: July 1st, 2009 by admin
The Afgan Climbers on NoShaq

Noshaq, the highest peak of Afghanistan (7,492 meters; 24,580 feet), has never been climbed by any Afghan citizen…but that may soon change. Four Afghan climbers originating from the Wakhan valley joined a mountaineering course in the Alps last month, and are now poised to climb Noshaq. Their goal is to … Read more…